Pork and potato stew is your cure to beat the winter blues
Gamjatang is a rich broth made from pork backbones boiled with potatoes. Originally a commoner’s dish, it is now served at many restaurants in Korea. The secret to finding a great place is in the broth—it should have golden globules of fat glistening on top—and in the potatoes, which soften over time to become sponges of flavor and help thicken the soup. The soup is a little spicy, because of the red peppers, but not overly so, and you’ll often find mushrooms, onions, and green sesame leaves. It tastes best when you save the potatoes until after they have had time to soften, soak up the porky broth, and become savory mashed potatoes.
Across from Yongsan’s E-mart is an area famous for gamjatang. Seobuk (¼ 북감자탕) is my favorite. The place has been around for 30 years, and the bones are packed with meat. After you eat the soup, they take the leftovers and make a delicious fried rice. I also recommend Songgane Gamjatang (송가네감자탕) over by Hongdae, which is a popular taxi driver hangout (when you can drive anywhere in the city, you tend to eat at the best).
Quick Bites Craftworks: Taphouse and Bistro Opens in Seoul
A group of expats, tired of not having a proper beer in Seoul, got together and opened their own “taphouse.” The beers are craft-brewed with fine hops, yeasts, and grains utilizing the fresh spring water in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-do. I highly recommend the Geumgang Mountain Dark Ale and their Halla Mountain Golden Ale. The food specials change daily, but if the muenster cheese sliders that I had are any indication the food is creative, delicious, and moderately priced. Located in Gyeongnidan, down the road from Noksapyeong Station, Line 6, Exit 2. T. (02) 794-2537. www.craftworkstaphouse.com
Give District Vintage-Style Cafeteria a Chance
I’m always suspicious of the new big, shiny restaurants in the busy areas of Seoul. These train wrecks are often the punchline of the pun, “What do you get when you combine a café, wine bar, Italian restaurant, beer, desserts, and waffles?” It was cold out and District was open, so I went in with my friends for a quick lunch. I was pleasantly surprised at their menu: shrimp pizza with truffle oil, chicken and broccoli cream spaghetti, and salad with fresh pineapple. Their citron ice tea has flavorful globes of frozen yuja orange (a.k.a. citron)—very refreshing and creative. Also, bottles of wine and alcohol aren’t too expensive either (both start at 30,000 won). On top of that, the atmosphere is open and well decorated. Maybe restaurants are finally starting to get it: good food in a nice atmosphere at a decent price = business. District: On the main road of Jongno 2-ga, across from YBM. T. 070-7152-6001. See our Maps & Guides supplement (p8, D4).
Seobuk: Sinyongsan Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Cross the street. T. (02) 794-0008. Songgane: Hongik University Station, Line 2, Exit 3. Go straight. Turn right on the first main road. T. (02) 3141-6557.
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